Stalls at the Saturday laiki market in Chania

A Cretan bakery guide: pies, rusks and what to ask

What to buy in a Cretan bakery: barley rusks for dakos, kalitsounia cheese pies, bougatsa, Sfakian pies with honey and festive xerotigana.

By TripToCrete · Updated 20 October 2026 · 2 min read

Quick answer: A Cretan bakery (fournos) sells far more than bread. Look for barley rusks (paximadia) for dakos, small kalitsounia cheese pies, bougatsa with myzithra, and festive sweets such as xerotigana.
Rusks
Paximadia, barley or wheat
Savoury
Kalitsounia, spanakopita, bougatsa
Sweet
Xerotigana, sesame koulouria
When
Early morning for the widest choice
Stalls at the Saturday laiki market in Chania

Rusks

Paximadia are twice-baked rusks, traditionally made with barley, that keep for months. Soaked briefly in water and topped with grated tomato, soft cheese and olive oil, they become dakos. Bakeries sell them in many shapes, from rings to large rounds.

Pies

Kalitsounia are small pies filled with soft cheese such as myzithra, sometimes with mint, or with wild greens. Spanakopita and hortopita use spinach or mixed greens. In Chania, ask for bougatsa with myzithra, eaten warm with sugar.

Sweets

Xerotigana are spirals of fried dough soaked in syrup or honey, traditional at weddings and festivals. Sesame koulouria and almond biscuits are everyday choices. Sfakian pies, thin rounds filled with cheese and served with honey, appear in bakeries and tavernas.

Asking

Ask what was baked that morning and whether a pie is filled with cheese or greens. Most bakeries sell by the piece or by weight.

Questions before you go

What are paximadia?

Twice-baked rusks, often made with barley, used for dakos.

What are kalitsounia?

Small Cretan pies, usually filled with soft cheese or greens.

What is xerotigana?

A festive pastry of fried dough spirals soaked in syrup or honey.

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